Providing setting recommendations for cameras isn't a one-size-fits-all solution due to the vast number of possible setups. Camera settings are an art form that begins with a fundamental understanding of camera technology. In this article, we will offer recommendations based on the environment in which the camera is installed and explain the functions of various camera settings. With this knowledge, you will be able to adjust the settings to suit your specific environment.
Table of Contents
Recommendation for Environment
Lighting
Lighting is the ideal starting point for camera setup. It's good practice to add more light where possible. A lack of light can sometimes result in false "focus issues," especially if the camera isn't configured to match the current lighting conditions. Refer to Why is my camera out-of-focus? for more details. Avoid filming light sources directly.
Zoom
If possible, avoid using full zoom. Consider using a camera with greater zoom capabilities if available, or position the camera closer to the object of interest. Utilizing the full zoom range causes the lens to extend further into the lens tube, reducing the amount of light reaching the lens and sensor. Additionally, it can make focusing more challenging as the lens is at its endpoint.
Placement
Ensure your camera is placed on a stable platform, free from vibrations. The farther the camera needs to zoom into the scene or object, the less light will reach the sensor, as previously explained. Therefore, position the camera as close as possible to the subject.
Camera Settings
Before implementing any digital image processing, ensure that the hardware is correctly configured (exposure, focus) and properly positioned (PTZ position).
Exposure
[VIDEO] -> [CAMERA SETTINGS] -> [EXPOSURE]
There are two main scenarios regarding light conditions: dynamic (spaces with windows, changing light conditions) and fixed (studios, permanently fixed lighting). Below are explanations of the different modes and when to use them.
Dynamic Light Conditions (Auto)
By default, the camera uses Automatic Exposure Mode (Auto) to open the Iris as much as needed to allow maximum light. However, this can introduce focus and depth of field issues in dark rooms, highlighting the importance of proper lighting. Refer to Why is my camera out-of-focus?. In most dynamic situations, this setting is preferred. If necessary, you can choose to use AAE (Aperture Automatic Exposure) or SAE (Shutter Automatic Exposure) mode.
Using AAE or SAE mode requires a more thorough understanding of camera technology. We'll explain the basics below.
AAE Mode
Aperture Automatic Exposure (AAE) mode allows you to set the size of the Iris opening while the camera determines the optimal shutter time. Adjusting the Iris can be a useful tool to create a larger or deeper Depth of Field, enabling objects or people at varying distances to remain in focus.
In short, closing the Iris slightly creates a more focused image because the light entering the lens through a smaller aperture forms a more concentrated beam on the sensor.
SAE Mode
Shutter Automatic Exposure (SAE) mode allows you to set the duration that the sensor is exposed to light per frame, expressed in fractions of a second (e.g., 1/100). The shutter operates at 60 frames per second and is independent of the output resolution setting on the camera.
Increasing the shutter time results in a blurrier video, sometimes perceived as out of focus. The advantage is that with a higher shutter time (e.g., 1/25), more light is captured, brightening the scene.
SAE is generally used for scenes with a lot of (fast) motion.
- Fast shutter speed (1/10000th of a second = 0.1 milliseconds): Produces a clear image even with fast movement, but less light reaches the sensor, resulting in a darker image where more gain may be needed, potentially adding more noise.
- Low shutter speed (1/25th of a second = 40 milliseconds): Allows more light per frame to reach the sensor, but fast movements can become blurry and fade.
Digital Image Processing
- DRC (Dynamic Range Compression): Compresses the natural dynamic range of the image by reducing the extremes of brightness and darkness.
- G.Limit: Specifies the maximum level of Gain. Gain is the artificial brightness and contrast that the camera can automatically add to the image. Use it carefully to avoid adding noise to dark areas and producing a washed-out, grayish picture.
- Brightness: Adjusts the overall brightness of the image.
- Contrast: Changes the scale of difference between dark and bright areas.
- Gamma: Defines the curve with which the sensor perceives light and dark.
- Anti Flicker: See our article for more on this subject.
There are more settings to discuss, such as EV (Exposure Value) and BLC (Back Light Compensation). Please refer to the camera's user manual for more details.
Focus
[VIDEO] -> [CAMERA SETTINGS] -> [FOCUS]
Manual focus is useful when the details of the filmed object are not clear against the background, and the autofocus has difficulty finding the correct focus. When the person or object is not centered in the frame, the camera may focus elsewhere. Manual focus is typically preferred in controlled environments where the distance between the camera and the subject remains constant.
Autofocus is beneficial if the filmed person or object is centered in the frame or if you cannot manually adjust the focus while recording. However, remember that autofocus isn't always the optimal solution, as its effectiveness depends on the accuracy of the algorithm.
Important: After activating an internal preset in the camera, if it was saved with autofocus, the camera will revert to autofocus. The same applies to manual focus.
Noise Reduction
[VIDEO] -> [CAMERA SETTINGS] -> [NR]
Noise reduction (NR) is the process of removing noise or signal distortion, particularly in poor lighting conditions. It helps eliminate the grainy appearance of low-light images, manage moving objects without leaving trails, and make images clearer and sharper. Additionally, reducing noise helps decrease the size of the signal. However, higher levels of noise reduction can soften the image, resulting in a loss of detail.
NR-2D is a temporal noise reduction method that analyzes individual video frames. It works well with the foreground of an image but is insufficient for high-resolution imaging and has limited effect on moving objects, potentially causing blur and motion trails.
NR-3D analyzes differences between subsequent video frames to adapt the pixels and improve image fidelity. 3D-DNR technology provides better noise reduction, especially for higher resolutions and moving objects.
The effectiveness of noise reduction depends on various factors: light conditions, static or dynamic objects, objects at varying distances, and image resolutions. In summary:
- NR-2D is suitable for low-resolution images and/or stationary objects or people.
- NR-3D is ideal for higher resolutions and/or moving objects.
- You can use both simultaneously to create a crisp and clear image.
Be cautious when adjusting noise reduction, as it can remove the natural 'crispness' of the image. Similarly, setting dynamic contrast and gain too high can introduce more noise. Whenever possible, it's better to add more light to the filmed object.
Color
[VIDEO] -> [CAMERA SETTINGS] -> [COLOR]
White Balance Mode
- Auto: The camera continuously measures and adjusts to light conditions. In this mode, you can make adjustments to fine-tune the image to your preference.
- Manual: Use the RG/BG tuning to add or remove red/blue in the output.
- XX00K: Set the white balance to a specific Kelvin scale. This is helpful if there is no true white point in the room or if a particular color is overrepresented in the environment.
- OnePush: Instructs the camera to use the current frame to set the white balance automatically and retain it until manually changed. Refer to this article for setup instructions.
Saturation
Adjusts the intensity of the image’s colors. Lower values result in less saturation, while higher values increase saturation. Since IP streaming can reduce some color information, it can be beneficial to set the value to 130% or 140%.
Auto White Balance (AWB) Sensitivity
This setting determines how quickly the camera responds to changing light conditions.
Conclusion
As demonstrated above, providing advice on the best camera settings is challenging because it depends on the specific situation. There is no single correct setting; achieving optimal results requires knowledge and practice. If you are uncertain, feel free to contact us through the support form.